Chef/owner Daniel Godinez has doubled down on steakhouse-quality meats, including Mishima Reserve American Wagyu and even Japanese A5 Wagyu, plus Iberico pork secreto. (Godinez used to operate a modern Mexican steakhouse called Polanco, where he served these very same meats. He’s also the guy behind those terrific Anepalco restaurants in Orange.)
Although the menu leans heavily toward the premium steak tacos (and, at this location, rice bowls), the kitchen still makes many of its original guisados, including the beef birria, cochinita pibil, chicken tinga and carnitas, all terrific. Sadly, they no longer make those incredible stewed pork ribs. Also gone is the grilled cecina (my previous go-to), replaced recently with hanger-steak carne asada. While I miss the authentic air-dried cecina, this new carne asada has become my new weekly obsession.
The Baja-style shrimp tacos are very good. The steak burritos, always outstanding. And the bowls, too, especially when topped with ribeye or porterhouse. Because the theme here leans into Northern Mexico’s ranchero traditions, the kitchen uses only flour tortillas, all made-to-order. The tortillas are truly the best in class (and they’ll soon be available to order online for home delivery from Godinez’s new tortilleria, Grano).
There’s no alcohol sold at this Newport location; if you crave a margarita (or el Diabolito!), you’ll have to go to Tustin, where Godinez’s also runs the adjacent Drink Bar. For what it’s worth, though, Newport does serve a full roster of Jarritos, plus Mexican Coke and a daily agua fresca.
Fonda Moderna Newport, 4341 MacArthur Blvd, Newport Beach, CA, fondamoderna.com
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