In Tokyo’s famously cultish — often very expensive — sushi scene, this two-year-old, utterly unpretentious 10-seat Edo-style sushi bar still feels like a well-kept secret. Hiding in the shadows of the skyscrapers of Nishishinjuku, it’s a short walk from the Park Hyatt Tokyo. Only 12 seats (14 on a busy night). Terrific nigiri craftsmanship. Charming service. One of the two chefs speaks a tiny bit of English, which is helpful since the menus are strictly Japanese. Everything is shockingly affordable — a nine-piece nigiri omakase costs only $45. After several days of nonstop, far more elaborate dining (story on that coming later for OLTRE), Sushi Kenzan was exactly what I needed. If you’re in Shinjuku, I highly recommend this spot.
Sushi Kenzan, 東京都新宿区西新宿3-13-14, Tel. 03-6383-3388; Reservations. On Instagram at @sushi_kenzan
