Chef Graham Squire is still at the helm, thankfully. And while he still toils in the basement, his sparkly new kitchen — with its private counter for VIPs — just might help his modern British cooking to earn a second Michelin star. It would be very well-deserved. The roasted Orkney Island scallop with lemon verbena and brown butter — just, wow. And the classic table-side Dover sole is an apt testament to maintaining traditions. Meanwhile, the revamped dining room is a magnificent Bridgerton-esque nod to England’s enduring upper crust, with massive hydrangeas in the windows and tongue-in-cheek artwork adorning the walls. Do not pass through London without eating here. Jackets are suggested for the guys.
As for the hotel itself? I foolishly waited until the very last minute to book a room — not realizing it was Royal Ascot weekend, one of high society’s biggest events of summer, which coincided this year with Taylor Swift’s sold-out concerts at Wembley Stadium. Thus I ended up with the tiniest room in the hotel: a “classics for one” room, intended for solo travelers. I was, indeed, traveling alone. Although petite, it did not lack extravagance: full-size desk, chandelier, spacious wardrobe, ultra-deep tub and separate shower, heated towels, top-floor views… Despite its demure footprint, this room was absolutely charming and immensely comfortable. I’m struggling to remember the last time a city hotel made me feel so utterly, endlessly taken care of. I will forever be a fan of @thegoring.
Bottom line: The Goring is one of London’s most luxurious and most glamorous hotels. And the restaurant is better and more beautiful than ever.
Rates from about $850. The Goring, 15 Beeston Pl, London, +44 20 7396 9000, thegoring.com
A portion of this article about The Dining Room at The Goring originally appeared in OLTRE. For a subscription to the quarterly print editions of OLTRE, contact your travel advisor. For more dining and travel inspiration, I invite you to follow me and join the conversation on Instagram, Facebook and Threads. (I’m no longer active on Twitter/X.)
