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Brad A. Johnson

Food & Travel

Brad A Johnson
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Quick Review: Chablé Yucatán, Chochola, Mexico

  • December 23, 2023
  • Brad A. Johnson
Chablé opened in 2016 in the rural village of Chochola, a 45-minute drive from Mérida. The resort occupies the land and several historic buildings of a 19th-century henequenera (sisal plantation), where rambling trails lead to 40 private casitas and three multi-bedroom villas, all shrouded among the wild, jungle-like countryside. The entry-level casitas are gigantic — with more than 2,000 square feet of living space. Everything comes with a private plunge pool and a sprawling terrace (in the front) and an outdoor shower (out back). 
Chablé Yucatán in Chochola, Mexico (Photo by Brad A. Johnson)
The terrace and pool of a standard casita at Chablé Yucatán in Chochola, Mexico (Photo by Brad A. Johnson)
Primary bedroom of the Royal Villa at Chablé Yucatán in Chochola, Mexico (Photo by Brad A. Johnson)

When you check in, you’ll trade your car for bicycles, which are the primary mode of transport around the resort. Electric golf carts are also available if you prefer to be chauffeured. It’s a large estate, and the ride to the restaurants and main pool can take five or 10 minutes, but it’s a beautiful romp through the lushly canopied paths. Chablé offers so much to explore, from a spa (overlooking a cenote)  to a private deer farm or the secret bar (that occupies a tiny, stand-alone house that long ago served as the home of the hacienda’s foreman). 

As spectacular as the accommodations, the food is what draws most guests to these Yucatán hinterlands. Or at least, that’s what drew me here. Namely, the signature restaurant Ixi’im. 

I first met chef Luis Ronzón eight years ago when he was the right-hand man of then-still-rising-star-celebrity-chef Jorge Vallejo at Quintonil in Mexico City. It was about a year after that when the soon-to-open Chablé announced that Vallejo would steer the new luxury brand’s culinary program. Vallejo dispatched Ronzón to launch the hotel’s new restaurants. 

Ronzón didn’t expect to stay forever but now can’t imagine leaving. 

“It’s amazing here,” he tells me. “There’s such an incredible energy in the Yucatán. It’s hard to describe, but you feel it, too, right?” 

Yellowtail tostada with citrus peel and guajillo chile at Ixi’im, at Chablé Yucatán in Chochola, Mexico (Photo by Brad A. Johnson)
Milpa salad with tomato, xilotes and recado negro vinaigrette at Ixi’im, at Chablé Yucatán in Chochola, Mexico (Photo by Brad A. Johnson)
Cochinita pibil at Ixi’im, at Chablé Yucatán in Chochola, Mexico (Photo by Brad A. Johnson)
Ixi’im, at Chablé Yucatán in Chochola, Mexico (Photo by Brad A. Johnson)
Ixi’im at Chablé Yucatán in Chochola, Mexico (Photo by Brad A. Johnson)
Conch ceviche with coconut and lime at Ixi’im, at Chablé Yucatán in Chochola, Mexico (Photo by Brad A. Johnson)
Corn pie at Ixi’im, at Chablé Yucatán in Chochola, Mexico (Photo by Brad A. Johnson)
Chocolate tamal at Ixi’im, at Chablé Yucatán in Chochola, Mexico (Photo by Brad A. Johnson)

Ixi’im occupies the plantation’s former mill. Although Ronzón works under the distant eye of his mentor, the menus here are entirely his own: raw kampachi dusted with tortilla ash and habanero cream, or tiny masa puffs inspired by traditional Yucatán salbutes (puffy tortillas) made from nixtamalized local corn, plus an upscale twist on cochinita pibil (the region’s famous pork roasted underground) with a miraculously crispy skin, and an extraordinary chocolate tamale wrapped in banana leaves. The restaurant’s tequila selection might be one of the biggest in the world.

Ronzón also devises the food at Chablé’s other restaurant, Ki’ol, an all-day outdoor affair adjacent to the pool. The food here — classic Yucatán comfort food — is every bit as fantastic as Ixi’im. The lime tortilla soup is sublime. The tacos, tostadas and salsas, stunning. And the margaritas, as good as it gets.  

Salsas at Ki’ol at Ixi’im, at Chablé Yucatán in Chochola, Mexico (Photo by Brad A. Johnson)
Chef Luis Ronzón at Ixi’im, at Chablé Yucatán in Chochola, Mexico (Photo by Brad A. Johnson)
Crab tostada at Ki’ol at Ixi’im, at Chablé Yucatán in Chochola, Mexico (Photo by Brad A. Johnson)

Bottom Line: Chablé Yucatán is an exquisite resort, not just for the well-publicized cuisine, but for the accommodations and hospitality as well. 

Rates from about $1,200; Tablaje #642, Chocholá, Yucatán, +52 (55) 4161 4262, chableyucatan.com 

A variation of this article, with additional Yucatán dining recommendations, originally appeared in the summer 2023 issue of OLTRE, the luxury travel magazine of Internova Travel Group. For a subscription and full access to OLTRE, contact your Internova-affiliated travel advisor. For more dining and travel inspiration, I invite you to follow me and join the conversation on Instagram, Facebook, Threads and Twitter (X).

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Brad A. Johnson

Brad A. Johnson is a photographer, writer and editor specializing in food and luxury travel. His work has been honored by the Lowell Thomas Travel Journalism Awards, James Beard Awards, FOLIO Eddie & Ozzie Awards, World Food Media Awards, World Food Photography Awards, Society for Features Journalism Awards, Muster Photo Awards and others. Based in Southern California, Brad was previously the founding editorial director of OLTRE, the national food and travel editor at Modern Luxury and a longtime reporter at Food & Wine, among other prominent roles.

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