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Brad A. Johnson

Food & Travel

Brad A Johnson
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Dish of the Week: Laksa at Uncle Fung, Buena Park

  • February 16, 2019
  • Brad A. Johnson

Laksa is a hallmark of Peranakan cuisine and is wildly popular in Singapore, Malaysia and Indonesia. A legitimately good rendition has always been hard to find locally, though.

Enter Uncle Fung, which opened last year in Buena Park. This laksa is legit. They make their own egg noodles, or mee, and these crinkly, slightly chewy noodles are as delicious as any of the best artisan ramen I’ve sampled in recent years (and O.C.’s ramen scene ranks among the best in America). The broth in this laksa is incredible. Orangish-yellow in color, it is rich and creamy, a mildly spicy curry thickened with coconut cream.

As is typical for laksa, this one is bolstered with shrimp, a seasoned boiled egg and several squares of puffed tofu. That tofu is beautifully fluffy, almost like fried marshmallows floating atop the soup.

It’s a rare thing when tofu steals the show. You’re going to want to eat this.

Uncle Fung, 7855 La Palma Ave., Buena Park, 714-521-0888

A version of this article originally appeared in the Orange County Register. To view more of my work for the Register, check out the archives. For more dining and travel inspiration, I invite you to follow me and join the conversation on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter. 

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Brad A. Johnson

Brad A. Johnson is a writer and photographer specializing in food and travel. His work has been honored by the Lowell Thomas Travel Journalism Awards, James Beard Awards, World Food Media Awards, Food Photographer of the Year Awards, Society of Features Journalism Awards and others. Based in Southern California, Brad currently serves as Editorial Director of the new luxury consumer travel magazine of the Global Travel Collection (launching Spring 2023).

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My sincerest thanks to the North American Travel Journalists Awards!⁠ 128 19
Hey, OC. FYI in case you missed it, @ryegoods has opened a new location on Red Hill in Tustin, just down the street from Flight/Mess Hall. Same incredible breads and pastries as the original on the peninsula. No lines here, plus a huge seating area. #sourdough #pastries #coffee #orangecounty 331 9
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I’m not sure which I liked better about the @fstokyo, the valet greeter and escort from the train station, the view of the trains from our room, or the super comfy pajamas. Excellent service all around. #Tokyo #Japan #hoteljunkie 83 3
I think @sezannetokyo ⁠has a #footfetish, and I’m ok with that. Truly fantastic lunch. Impeccable service. ⁠ 64 2
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Brad A. Johnson
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Writer. Photographer. Traveler. Restaurant Critic.

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