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Brad A. Johnson

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Brad A Johnson
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Dish of the Week: Laksa at Uncle Fung, Buena Park

  • February 16, 2019
  • Brad A. Johnson

Laksa is a hallmark of Peranakan cuisine and is wildly popular in Singapore, Malaysia and Indonesia. A legitimately good rendition has always been hard to find locally, though.

Enter Uncle Fung, which opened last year in Buena Park. This laksa is legit. They make their own egg noodles, or mee, and these crinkly, slightly chewy noodles are as delicious as any of the best artisan ramen I’ve sampled in recent years (and O.C.’s ramen scene ranks among the best in America). The broth in this laksa is incredible. Orangish-yellow in color, it is rich and creamy, a mildly spicy curry thickened with coconut cream.

As is typical for laksa, this one is bolstered with shrimp, a seasoned boiled egg and several squares of puffed tofu. That tofu is beautifully fluffy, almost like fried marshmallows floating atop the soup.

It’s a rare thing when tofu steals the show. You’re going to want to eat this.

Uncle Fung, 7855 La Palma Ave., Buena Park, 714-521-0888

A version of this article originally appeared in the Orange County Register. To view more of my work for the Register, check out the archives. For more dining and travel inspiration, I invite you to follow me and join the conversation on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter. 

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Brad A. Johnson

Brad A. Johnson is a photographer, writer and editor specializing in food and luxury travel. His work has been honored by the Lowell Thomas Travel Journalism Awards, James Beard Awards, FOLIO Eddie & Ozzie Awards, World Food Media Awards, World Food Photography Awards, Society for Features Journalism Awards, Muster Photo Awards and others. Based in Southern California, Brad was previously the founding editorial director of OLTRE, the national food and travel editor at Modern Luxury and a longtime reporter at Food & Wine, among other prominent roles.

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Writer. Photographer. Traveler. Restaurant Critic.

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