Laksa is a hallmark of Peranakan cuisine and is wildly popular in Singapore, Malaysia and Indonesia. A legitimately good rendition has always been hard to find locally, though.
Enter Uncle Fung, which opened last year in Buena Park. This laksa is legit. They make their own egg noodles, or mee, and these crinkly, slightly chewy noodles are as delicious as any of the best artisan ramen I’ve sampled in recent years (and O.C.’s ramen scene ranks among the best in America). The broth in this laksa is incredible. Orangish-yellow in color, it is rich and creamy, a mildly spicy curry thickened with coconut cream.
As is typical for laksa, this one is bolstered with shrimp, a seasoned boiled egg and several squares of puffed tofu. That tofu is beautifully fluffy, almost like fried marshmallows floating atop the soup.
It’s a rare thing when tofu steals the show. You’re going to want to eat this.
Uncle Fung, 7855 La Palma Ave., Buena Park, 714-521-0888
A version of this article originally appeared in the Orange County Register. To view more of my work for the Register, check out the archives. For more dining and travel inspiration, I invite you to follow me and join the conversation on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter.