This is my favorite place in the world to ski. If you’re heading this way, here’s where to eat. Most places fill up fast, so it’s imperative to book reservations in advance.
1. Alpino Vino
At 11,966 feet above sea level, this charming on-mountain chalet is America’s highest-altitude restaurant. It might also be the very best restaurant in Telluride. The restaurant seats only 26 people inside (if you squeeze everyone in like sardines!). There’s a wood-burning fireplace and several different nooks and crannies to create a sense of intimacy, despite the cramped quarters. The menu is mostly Italian. At lunch, which is ski-in/ski-out, this means exquisite salumi and bresaola but also a terrific grilled cheese sandwich served with tomato soup. Come dinnertime when the mountain goes quiet, the restaurant is accessible only by snowcat (blankets provided for the slow crawl up the hill.) The nighttime menu goes all out, a prix fixe five-course menu: porcini consomme with mushroom biscotti; ricotta and spinach ravioli with fresh pea pesto and carbonara, for example, complete with sommeliers and sexy hostesses. Skiers: Take the Gold Hill Express, Lift 14; turn left off the lift and ski See Forever, which will take you to the font door. 970-728-7474
2. 221 South Oak
This charming historic house in downtown Telluride is the perfect spot for date night. Chef Eliza Gavin makes some of the best sausage in Colorado, which doesn’t sound very glamorous, but she manages to make it just that. Rocky mountain trout is pure locavore perfection. Grilled elk chop, brilliant. The bone-in buffalo ribeye is as good as any USDA Prime steak you’ll ever eat. Pumpkin and butterscotch custard pie? Yes please. 221 South Oak St., Telluride, 970-728-9507
3. Chop House
Come nightfall, this is the social epicenter of downtown Telluride. The USDA Prime steaks are excellent. There’s also wagyu carpaccio with black truffles, frisee salad with miso-glazed pork belly and creamed corn brûlée. The wine list is deep, with splurge-worthy selections from Harlan Estate, Merry Edwards, Petrus… Lunchtime brings a decent steak frites, but dinnertime is when you really want to be here. New Sheridan Hotel, 231 W. Colorado Ave., Telluride, 970-728-9100
4. Allred’s
The views from here are epic — guaranteed to blow your mind. It’s no wonder this is the most popular sunset happy hour scene in Telluride. Located on-mountain at the gondola stop (Station Saint Sophia) midway between Telluride and Mountain Village, the restaurant is perfectly accessible with or without skis. This is also the most expensive restaurant in town, naturally. Elk carpaccio. Crumb-crusted rack of Colorado lamb. Sticky toffee pudding. Saint Sophia Station, Gondola, 970-728-7474
5. La Marmotte
Chef Mark Reggiannini recently departed this long-running French bistro. I’m not sure who the new owner/chef is, but the place is still packed. While I previously strongly recommended this place, I’m withholding that advice until I’ve had a chance to try the new menu. At the very least, it’s worth a look. 150 San Juan Avenue, Telluride, 970-728-6232
6. Bon Vivant
This on-mountain alfresco dining hut is fabulous. It’s essentially just one giant umbrella outfitted with heat lamps, perched on a cliff overlooking the ski basin. But don’t underestimate the French-Alps-inspired kitchen. The seared foie gras is perfect, served with house-pickled vegetables. The mushroom soup en croute is a soulful embrace. The croque madame, the crepes, the poached pears, all excellent. No reservations. Take the Polar Queen Express lift. 970-728-6900
7. Tomboy Tavern
A gastropub at the base of the mountain just steps from the ski lift, this is Mountain Village’s hottest happy hour. This is where you’ll find the best Bloody Marys in Telluride, hands-down. The burgers are monstrous. And while it might sound weird to put kale in the guacamole, it’s actually really good. Great beer selection, too. Mountain Village Core, 970-728-7467
8. Cosmopolitan
This is always one of the most popular restaurants in Telluride, located across the street from the Gondola in the Hotel Columbia. The wagyu steak for two is superb and gives the steakhouse around the corner a run for its money. The burrata is made in-house. The seafood stew is very good, although I don’t really go to the mountains for shrimp and lobster. The blueberry pie is legendary. Impeccable service, especially as it relates to the sommelier. You’ll definitely enjoy the wine list here. Hotel Columbia, 300 West San Juan Avenue, 970-728-1292
9. There
This is one of the toughest tables in Telluride. Several reasons for that: One, the place is tiny, with just a few small tables and a half-dozen seats at the bar. Two, the artisanal cocktails are easily the best in town. And three, the Asian-inspired food is very good, especially the pork belly bao and the wagyu satay. 627 West Pacific Ave., 970-728-1213
10. Gorrono Ranch
Located mid-mountain on the Misty Maiden trail, Gorrono Ranch is always a blast. There’s usually a live band playing on stage outside. There’s an indoor bar, with killer hot chocolate and whiskey, and there’s another bar outside near the stage. The main kitchen creates great burgers and chili, while a hidden barbecue hut behind the bar smokes some decent pulled pork (which is better than the brisket), but it often sells out by 2 pm, so it’s best to make a pitstop here on the early side of lunch. This is one of the best meeting spots on the mountain. Take Village Express Lift, then Misty Maiden trail, 970-728-7566
11. Wood Ear
Three Texas transplants opened this Texas-Asian-Mountain mashup in 2018. They bill this underground spot as a whisky lounge and noodle bar, and they serve a terrific bowl of ramen noodles with Texas-style, slow-smoked barbecued brisket. Even better than the noodles, though, are their pork tacos. I almost didn’t order the tacos because the ingredient list included brussels sprouts, which made me skeptical. But, wow, although admittedly fru-fru these tacos are great. There’s a layer of melted cheese between two corn tortillas, which are stuffed with first-rate carnitas. The brussels are sort of fried, so they provide texture more than flavor. Do not miss this. No reservations. 135 E Colorado Ave., 970-852-0469
12. The National
This is the sexiest restaurant to open in Telluride in, well, maybe ever. It opened a few days before Christmas 2018, 2 days before my last visit, and it was fully booked so I couldn’t get a table. It’s run by several longtime locals who’ve worked at other restaurants on this list, including Allred’s, 221 South Oak, Chop House and La Marmotte. Sadly I only had the opportunity to have a drink, and I can say the bartenders are terrific. Great wine list, too.
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