The family behind legendary Pho 79 has opened an offshoot, Pho 101, and it is everything Pho 79 is not. It is modern. It is pretty. It is sparklingly clean. They accept credit cards. And they will soon serve beer.

Just as with the original, the same insider trick applies when ordering oxtail noodle soup here. You won’t actually find oxtail pho listed anywhere on the menu. Rather, you’ll see a bunch of different pho variations with several combinations of rare and well-done meats. Look more closely and you’ll also see a boring-sounding version of pho without meat. That’s the one you want. Now look for the list of add-ons. That’s where you’ll find the oxtail, which is served separately. A single order is more than enough for two people to share. 8031 Edinger Ave., Westminster; 714-375-3330; tranfamilykitchen.com

This post is excerpted from The Best Thing I Ate article that originally appeared in the Orange County Register. To view more of my work for the Register, check out the archives. For more dining and travel inspiration, I invite you to follow me and join the conversation on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter.