This ceviche at Central in Laguna Beach is extraordinary. Chef Michael Campbell weaves ribbons of yellowtail into a beautiful tapestry with cherry tomatoes, red onion and fresno chiles in citrus-coconut broth. Truth be told, it’s more like sashimi than ceviche, as the lime juice isn’t given a chance to alter the texture of the raw fish but is rather meant only to accentuate it. This is easily one of the best things I’ve eaten this year. 361 Forest Ave., Laguna Beach; 949-715-0801; centrallagunabeach.com

This article is excerpted from my Short Order review of Central that originally appeared in the Orange County Register. To view more of my work for the Register, check out the archives. For more dining and travel inspiration, I invite you to follow me and join the conversation on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter.