Shanghai is famous for its hairy crabs, which are in season in the fall. It was a sweltering day in October when I tasted this hairy crab bisque at Ye Shanghai, one of the city’s most elegant Chinese restaurants. On such a hot day, a hot bowl of soup was the furthest thing from my mind. Until the waiter set this soup in front of me. If you find yourself in Shanghai in autumn, I highly recommend the hairy crab soup at Ye Shanghai.