There are lots of reasons to dine at the newly relocated Mi Mexico Lindo Grill in Santa Ana. Some come for the weekend karaoke and pitchers of cold beer. Others eye this place for breakfast, when the kitchen serves enfrijoladas.
But really, the best reason to come here is the house specialty called chamorro Mi Mexico Lindo, served for lunch and dinner every day. The chamorro is a big, meaty Flintstones-style pork shank. It is cooked for hours until the meat just slides right off the bone, revealing an inner flesh that looks rosy, almost crimson, as if it’s been smoldering forever in a barbecue pit. The shank arrives at the table cloaked in a sauce of morita chilies. These are a type of chipotle, a red jalapeño that’s been dried and lightly smoked. They are milder and less intensely smoky than common chipotles. Tempered with broth and cream, the sauce’s heat barely registers on the Scoville scale, coming across rich and decadent, like mole, with a tinge of sweetness but not too much.
The chamorro comes with a cup of charro beans and Mexican rice, both of which are very good, but you’ll want to go easy on those. The shank is huge – and you will not want to waste a bite.
MI MEXICO LINDO GRILL
Where: 2525 N. Grand Ave., Santa Ana
When: Breakfast, lunch and dinner, daily
This article originally appeared in the Orange County Register. To view more of my work for the Register, check out the archives. I also invite you to follow me and join the conversation on Facebook and Twitter.