Quick Look: Old Malaya Grill, Huntington Beach

Old Malaya Grill (photo by Brad A Johnson)The best thing on the menu at Old Malaya Grill in Huntington Beach isn’t Malaysian. It’s the Indonesian nasi goreng, or fried rice infused with chili sauce and topped with a fried egg. As Indonesian nasi goreng goes, this one is very, very good.

The Malaysian food here — which is the real focus — is decent, although nothing that I’ve sampled actually transports me back to the streets of Kuala Lumpur or Penang. Everything I’ve tasted feels overly westernized and dialed back. The laksa is strangely sweet rather than spicy. And the noodles in the mee goreng (stir-fried noodles) are unpleasantly mushy. Best bet: stick to the chicken satay and the nasi goreng, and you’ll be happy. Note: They’re open only three days a week, Fri – Sun.

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