Brad A. Johnson
  • Blog
  • About
  • Photography
    • Food Photography
    • Travel Photography
    • Restaurant Photography
    • Hotel & Resort Photography
  • Writing
  • Contact
Brad A. Johnson

Food & Travel

Brad A Johnson
  • Blog
  • About
  • Photography
    • Food Photography
    • Travel Photography
    • Restaurant Photography
    • Hotel & Resort Photography
  • Writing
  • Contact

Quick Review: NoMi, Chicago

  • December 15, 2011
  • Brad A. Johnson
Park Hyatt Chicago (Photo by Brad A. Johnson)
Park Hyatt Chicago (Photo by Brad A. Johnson)
Chocolate tart for one at Nomi at Park Hyatt Chicago (Photo by Brad A. Johnson)
Chocolate tart for one at Nomi at Park Hyatt Chicago (Photo by Brad A. Johnson)
Nomi at Park Hyatt Chicago (Photo by Brad A. Johnson)
Nomi at Park Hyatt Chicago (Photo by Brad A. Johnson)

Earlier this year, the Park Hyatt Chicago closed its 7th-floor restaurant, NoMi (800 N. Michigan Ave., 312-239-4030), to revamp it, expose the kitchen and relaunch it as something far more casual. When I first got wind of this, I thought, “Uh, oh.” I feared the worst. NoMi had been one of the most elegant, most wonderful restaurants in Chicago.

But I fretted for nothing. The new NoMi isn’t that much different. Well, it is, but it isn’t. Oh, sure, it’s more casual. The tablecloths are gone. The kitchen is now wide open. And there’s a massive leg of Ibérico pork bolted to carving stand next to the door. There’s also a new chef in the kitchen, Ryan LaRoche (formerly of Chicago’s Tru and Las Vegas’ L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon). He’s replaced the multi-course degustations with an à la carte menu that marries rustic farmhouse sensibilities with urban chophouse panache. In the end, NoMi is still superb in every respect. And this is still one of the hottest restaurants in town. In fact, it might be hotter than before. The new NoMi reminds me a lot of Laurent Tourendel’s BLT Market at the Ritz-Carlton in New York.

I’m contemplating an appetizer called “uni toast,” so I ask my waiter what he thinks of the choice. “Amazing,” he says, twisting my arm. And he’s right—but he fails to warn me how large the portion is will be. I’m served three slices of flatbread griddled with olive oil and covered with an bucketful of sea urchin roe (uni) and pillowy shavings of fatty, unctuous Spanish ham. By the second slice, I’m dizzy. But I’m also just getting started. An exquisite fillet of sea bass comes draped over a bed of Dupuy lentils with smoked ham hock and chicken jus, which is so good I embarrass myself by how quickly and savagely I’ve wolfed it down.

At this point, I’m thinking I’ll pass on dessert, even though every single item on the menu sounds tempting: gingerbread sponge cake with gianduja ice cream and spiced pumpkin confit, for example, or maple custard with cranberry compote, tangerine curd and candied granola. “Oh, but wait,” says the waiter. “We have a few special desserts tonight that aren’t printed on that menu. I’ll show you. I’ll be right back.” And he returns with a large board carrying a couple of rustic, seasonal fruit pies and, whoa, wait a minute, that’s the most beautiful chocolate tart I’ve ever seen! Too beautiful to eat? Never. It’s utterly sublime.

For more travel inspiration and photos, I invite you to follow me and join the conversation on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter.

More from Chicago
    • Travel: Culinary
    • Travel: United States
Blackbird, Chicago 1997 – 2020 (RIP)
  • Brad A. Johnson
  • July 3, 2020
    • Travel: United States
Hotel Review: LondonHouse, Chicago
  • Brad A. Johnson
  • December 17, 2016
    • Travel: United States
72 Hours in Chicago, 27 photos
  • Brad A. Johnson
  • December 16, 2016
    • Travel: Culinary
    • Travel: United States
Hotel Review: The Robey, Chicago
  • Brad A. Johnson
  • December 10, 2016
    • Travel: Culinary
    • Travel: United States
Alinea, Chicago: 3 hours, 28 photos
  • Brad A. Johnson
  • December 9, 2016
    • Travel: United States
Quick Review: Public Hotel Chicago
  • Brad A. Johnson
  • December 15, 2011
Share
Tweet
Brad A. Johnson

Brad A. Johnson is a writer and photographer specializing in food and travel. His work has been honored by the James Beard Awards, Lowell Thomas Travel Journalism Awards, World Food Media Awards, pdn Food Photography Awards and others. Based in Southern California, Brad currently serves as restaurant critic for the Orange County Register.

Previous Article

Critic’s Notebook: Baco Mercat, Los Angeles

  • December 13, 2011
  • Brad A. Johnson
View Post
Next Article

Quick Review: Radisson Blu Aqua Hotel, Chicago

  • December 15, 2011
  • Brad A. Johnson
View Post
You May Also Like
View Post
  • California Restaurants
  • Travel: Culinary
  • Travel: United States

Quick Look: Niner Wine Estates, Paso Robles

  • Brad A. Johnson
  • August 15, 2020
View Post
  • California Restaurants
  • Travel: United States

Quick Look: Presqu’ile Winery, Santa Maria

  • Brad A. Johnson
  • July 18, 2020
View Post
  • California Hotels
  • Travel: United States

Motel Review: Skyview Los Alamos

  • Brad A. Johnson
  • July 12, 2020
View Post
  • Travel: Culinary
  • Travel: United States

Blackbird, Chicago 1997 – 2020 (RIP)

  • Brad A. Johnson
  • July 3, 2020
View Post
  • Travel: United States

Photo of the Week: Pier 7, San Francisco

  • Brad A. Johnson
  • June 21, 2020
View Post
  • California Restaurants
  • Travel: United States

Photo Diary: Eating and Drinking During the 2020 Quarantine

  • Brad A. Johnson
  • June 14, 2020
View Post
  • Travel: United States

Telluride in Black and White

  • Brad A. Johnson
  • February 22, 2020
View Post
  • California Hotels
  • Travel: United States

Review: Disney’s Grand Californian Hotel

  • Brad A. Johnson
  • February 4, 2020
Locally roasted coffee has jumped from trend to full-blown revolution. I spent the past few weeks tasting 39 different locally roasted coffees and picked my 10 favorite roasters. I no longer require sleep. ⁠⁠ 178 18
Happy Valentine's Day @kaosu ⁠⁠ 69 4
I think I might make a sandwich today. @ryegoods⁠⁠ 114 9
Lemon curd morning bun. Wild-fermented croissant sourdough rolled with Meyer lemon zest and injected with sweet-tangy curd. Plus toasted meringue. Good morning. ⁠⁠ 126 9
New story online today at @ocregister: Everything you need to know about the new East Borough. Long story short: still the best banh mi in OC, and their new porridge is seriously INCREDIBLE, lumps and all. But I do miss the old porch. ⁠⁠ 158 8
How do you feel about birria ramen? I have a few thoughts myself. Story online today at ocregister.com⁠⁠ 182 14
Brad A. Johnson
  • Blog
  • About
  • Photography
  • Writing
  • Contact
Writer. Photographer. Traveler. Restaurant Critic.

Input your search keywords and press Enter.