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Brad A. Johnson

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Brad A Johnson
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Exclusive Sneak Peek: Las Ventanas’ Menu Revamp (All Mexican! No More Baja-Med)

  • November 30, 2011
  • Brad A. Johnson
Shrimp al ajillo with chorizo dust at The Restaurant at Las Ventanas al Paraiso (Photo by Brad A Johnson)
Local parrot fish tiradito at The Restaurant at Las Ventanas al Paraiso (Photo by Brad A Johnson)
Suckling pig tamal at The Restaurant at Las Ventanas al Paraiso (Photo by Brad A Johnson)
Tres leches from the upcoming menu at The Restaurant at Las Ventanas al Paraiso (Photo by Brad A Johnson)

Worldwide exclusive: Las Ventanas al Paraiso in Los Cabos has been serving so-called “Baja Mediterranean” cuisine (a term it coined) at its signature Restaurant since the resort’s inception in 1997. But come January, that not-quite-authentic approach will be jettisoned in favor of a new, more genuinely Mexican menu inspired by regional classics (still incorporating the finest local ingredients), thus creating a far more authentic sense of place and local culture at the resort.

Executive chef Fabrice Guisset, a Frenchman who long ago adopted Mexico as his home, encouraged his staff (as well as employees from other departments of the hotel) to bring him their best and favorite family recipes from anywhere in Mexico—Campeche, Michoacan, Guerrero, Oaxaca, Baja, Yucatán, Veracruz—and he was amazed at the range and quality of ideas that came pouring in from proud cooks, recipes for everything from cochinita pibil (slow-roasted Yucatán-style pork) to tres leches (classic three-milks cake). He’s since been working with those classic flavors and concepts, creating modern interpretations and presentations for the new dinner menu, which he’ll debut at The Restaurant in January.

Kitchen supervisor Julio Luna offered his family’s recipe for suckling pig, and then, working with Guisset and using suckling pigs from a local farm, they translated the idea into an extraordinary entrée of slow-roasted pork served with a rustic tamal, topped with modernist Oaxaca cheese foam and a savory sauce of xoconostle (cactus fruit). Guisset has arranged to send Luna to Spain next year to stage with the legendary Martin Berasategui in San Sebastian.

Executive sous chef Victor Palma came up with an idea for mussels steamed in Negra Modelo, a dark Mexican beer, along with hoja santa, chipotle chiles and tomatillo. But for Guisset, merely steaming the mussels in the kitchen wasn’t spectacular enough, so he commissioned custom molcajetes (large volcanic stone mortars) in which the mussels can been cooked at the table directly in front of the guests.

Additional highlights of the upcoming menu also include braised short rib “pascalito,” whose sauce is sort of like mole made with pumpkin seeds, serrano chiles and epazote, and red snapper a la talla, a speciality from Colima, in which the fish is wrapped in a banana leaf and cook over charcoal. Starters include a gorgeous parrot fish tiradito, made with one of Baja’s best local catches, as well as shrimp al ajillo, made with prawns from La Paz or Mahia Magadlena, depending on the season, and garnished with chorizo dust.

For dessert, tres leches pastry chef Rene Bermond has reinvisioned the classic tres leches. And there will be a mind-blowingly delicious chocolate cake made with X-tabentum, a liqueur from the Yucatán made with anis and honey.

Naturally, a few of the classic Baja Mediterranean dishes will still be made available to guests who ask for them, although the standards probably won’t be listed on the menu. Guisset figures some longtime regulars will still ask for their favorite local heirloom tomato salad with buffalo mozzarella and grated garlic vinaigrette or the agave glazed chicken. And the longstanding tradition of serving prime rib on Friday nights will probably migrate to the resorts Sea Grill rather than being offered at the new all-Mexican, all-the-time Restaurant.

Rosewood Las Ventanas al Paraiso, Los Cabos, Mexico (Photo by Brad A. Johnson)
Rosewood Las Ventanas al Paraiso, Los Cabos, Mexico (Photo by Brad A. Johnson)
Rosewood Las Ventanas al Paraiso, Los Cabos, Mexico (Photo by Brad A. Johnson)
Rosewood Las Ventanas al Paraiso, Los Cabos, Mexico (Photo by Brad A. Johnson)
Rosewood Las Ventanas al Paraiso, Los Cabos, Mexico (Photo by Brad A. Johnson)
Rosewood Las Ventanas al Paraiso, Los Cabos, Mexico (Photo by Brad A. Johnson)
Rosewood Las Ventanas al Paraiso, Los Cabos, Mexico (Photo by Brad A. Johnson)

This article originally appeared in Mexico Today. For more travel inspiration and photos, I invite you to follow me and join the conversation on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter.

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Brad A. Johnson

Brad A. Johnson is a writer and photographer specializing in food and travel. His work has been honored by the Lowell Thomas Travel Journalism Awards, James Beard Awards, World Food Media Awards, Food Photographer of the Year Awards, Society of Features Journalism Awards and others. Based in Southern California, Brad currently serves as Editorial Director of the new luxury consumer travel magazine of the Global Travel Collection (launching Spring 2023).

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Hey, OC. FYI in case you missed it, @ryegoods has opened a new location on Red Hill in Tustin, just down the street from Flight/Mess Hall. Same incredible breads and pastries as the original on the peninsula. No lines here, plus a huge seating area. #sourdough #pastries #coffee #orangecounty 322 9
One more post from our lovely stay at @fstokyo. Delicious lunch at @maisonmarunouchi, the casual sibling to @sezannetokyo. Excellent all around. And clearly popular with Tokyo's ladies who lunch: the clientele during our visit, almost entirely women. Quite the see-and-be-seen crowd. 57 1
I’m not sure which I liked better about the @fstokyo, the valet greeter and escort from the train station, the view of the trains from our room, or the super comfy pajamas. Excellent service all around. #Tokyo #Japan #hoteljunkie 79 3
I think @sezannetokyo ⁠has a #footfetish, and I’m ok with that. Truly fantastic lunch. Impeccable service. ⁠ 63 1
We had a really fun "Lost in Translation" moment at @meatman_roppongi. Google Translate failed hilariously. Delicious meat/fat overload anyway. Great staff, charming hospitality. Lots of sake. Thank you, @fstokyo for securing the reservation! #Tokyo #Roppongi #sake 76 1
Well, that was interesting.  A toast to 2022. And looking forward to ‘23. Cheers, and safe travels to all. 81 1
Brad A. Johnson
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Writer. Photographer. Traveler. Restaurant Critic.

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