Critic’s Notebook: Sotto, Los Angeles


Zach Pollack at Sotto

There’s always room for another Italian restaurant in L.A., especially when it’s as original as Sotto. It’s owned by Steve Samsom and Zach Pollack, two former chefs from Pizzeria Ortica. Their menu is market-inspired Southern Italian, which translates to meaty, fatty lamb ribs served with mustard greens, or charred baby gem lettuces with anchovy-garlic pesto. But let’s be honest. Sotto is truly about the pizza—otherwise they wouldn’t have hired an oven builder from Naples. The true measure of a Neapolitan pizzeria is, of course, the Margherita, and this one’s got an appropriately bright, acidic tomato sauce and milky globs of mozzarella. The crust is almost there—thin, soft, billowy and blistered. It’s a bit doughy (undercooked), though, considering how heavily the crust is charred. I hope it’s still a work in progress. 

9575 W. Pico Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA
(310) 277-0210


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