Critic’s Notebook: Sotto, Los Angeles

Sotto

Zach Pollack at Sotto

There’s always room for another Italian restaurant in L.A., especially when it’s as original as Sotto. It’s owned by Steve Samsom and Zach Pollack, two former chefs from Pizzeria Ortica. Their menu is market-inspired Southern Italian, which translates to meaty, fatty lamb ribs served with mustard greens, or charred baby gem lettuces with anchovy-garlic pesto. But let’s be honest. Sotto is truly about the pizza—otherwise they wouldn’t have hired an oven builder from Naples. The true measure of a Neapolitan pizzeria is, of course, the Margherita, and this one’s got an appropriately bright, acidic tomato sauce and milky globs of mozzarella. The crust is almost there—thin, soft, billowy and blistered. It’s a bit doughy (undercooked), though, considering how heavily the crust is charred. I hope it’s still a work in progress. 

Sotto
9575 W. Pico Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA
(310) 277-0210

 

Advertisements

Leave a Reply

Please log in using one of these methods to post your comment:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: