Quick Review: Public Kitchen & Bar, Hollywood

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The old Dakota Steakhouse has been transformed into Public Kitchen and Bar, a fittingly grand tavern that feels like it’s been around forever, serving modern, market-driven cocktails and a robust American menu filled with buttery-soft Parker House rolls, a gigantic pork schnitzel and cloud-like passionfruit trifle.Tim Goodell was the trailblazing chef who introduced pork belly to fine dining in SoCal more than a decade ago, and now he appears to be on a similar mission with chicharrones (fried pig skin), seasoned with chile and a squirt of lime. He’s making incredible pâtés and chicken liver terrines. He’s stuffing squash blossoms with hatch chiles. He’s slathering hefty lamb T-bones with fresh mint pesto. And if there’s an agnolotti being offered on the daily specials board, order it. At the Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel, 7000 Hollywood Blvd., L.A., 323.466.7000

 photo courtesy of the restaurant

 

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