Critic’s Notebook: AFrame, Los Angeles


Photo by Dale Berman for Angeleno

Roy Choy, the chef responsible for the Kogi taco craze, and David Reiss, the nightlife guy behind The Brig and Alibi Room, have transformed an old IHOP into AFrame (12565 W. Washington Blvd., Culver City, 310.398.7700). I confess I’ve never been a fan of Kogi’s fusion tacos, and I loathe the communal seating concept here at AFrame, but I’m seriously loving every bite of Choy’s new global picnic menu. The idea is to eat as much of the family-style meal as possible—gloriously messy lamb ribs, kettle corn that drips with butter, kaffir lime-spiked peel-and-eat shrimp and deep-fried apple pie—without the aid of utensils. Be prepared to wait up to an hour (they don’t take reservations, and they rarely answer the phone), but it’s sort of worth it.  


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